A small painting, a framed photo, or a mounted print looks best when it stands on its own on a shelf or table. Store-bought frames often include a fold-out support for exactly this reason, but canvas panels, art boards, and handmade frames usually do not. Learning how to make an easel back solves that with a few cheap materials and about half an hour of work, and you can size it to any piece you want to show.
Quick answer: To make an easel back, cut a tapered strut from stiff board (chipboard, mat board or thin wood) about two-thirds to three-quarters the height of your artwork. Hinge the top of the strut to the back of the piece with strong cloth or bookbinding tape, then attach a ribbon or cord between the strut and the backing so it opens to a fixed angle of roughly 15 to 20 degrees. For heavier pieces, use a wooden strut with a small metal hinge and a chain or brass stay instead of tape.
What an Easel Back Is and How It Works
An easel back is a hinged leg attached to the back of a flat object so it can stand at a slight lean. It works like a tripod with two of its feet formed by the bottom edge of the artwork itself. The strut swings out from the hinge, and a limiter, usually a ribbon or small strap, stops it from opening too far and letting the piece fall flat.
Three things decide whether an easel back works well:
- Strut length: Too short and the piece leans back too far and looks like it is collapsing. Too long and it stands nearly vertical and tips forward easily.
- Hinge strength: The hinge carries the whole load each time the piece is moved or bumped.
- Angle limit: Without a limiter, the strut slides outward and the piece slowly falls.
Good placement is half the effect. An easel back holds a piece at a lean that catches light differently depending on where it sits in the room, much like a full-size studio easel. If you are also arranging a work area, our guide to the best easel position for painting explains how light direction and viewing angle affect what you see.
Materials and Tools
For a lightweight easel back (photos, small panels, cards)
- Chipboard, mat board or the back of an old sketchbook (around 1.5 to 2 mm thick)
- Strong cloth tape, linen bookbinding tape or gummed framing tape, about 1 to 1.5 inches wide
- Narrow ribbon, twill tape or thin cord for the limiter
- PVA glue or a strong double-sided adhesive
- Craft knife, steel ruler, cutting mat and pencil
For a sturdier easel back (framed art, small canvases, heavier panels)
- Thin plywood, hardboard or a pine strip about 1/4 inch thick
- A small brass butt hinge with short screws
- Small screw eyes and a length of fine chain, or a folding brass stay
- Wood glue and sandpaper
- Small hand saw or coping saw, drill with a fine bit
Sizing the Strut
A simple rule of thumb gives reliable results for most pieces:
| Artwork height | Strut length (approx.) | Strut width at the top | Strut width at the foot |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5 inches | 3.5 inches | 1.5 inches | 0.75 inch |
| 7 inches | 5 inches | 2 inches | 1 inch |
| 10 inches | 7 inches | 2.5 inches | 1 inch |
| 12 inches | 8.5 inches | 3 inches | 1.25 inches |
| 16 inches | 11 inches | 3.5 inches | 1.5 inches |
These are starting points, roughly 70 percent of the artwork’s height. The top of the strut sits about a quarter to a third of the way down from the top edge of the piece, and the foot of the strut should reach the table level with the bottom edge of the artwork when opened. A wider top gives a larger hinge area; a narrower foot looks neater and is less visible from the side.
How to Make an Easel Back from Board
- Measure the artwork. Note the height of the piece in the orientation you want it to stand. Decide whether it will display as portrait or landscape; the strut runs vertically in both cases, but its length depends on the height.
- Draw the strut. On your board, mark a tapered shape using the table above, wider at the top and narrower at the foot. Cut a slight angle at the foot so it rests flat on the table when the strut is open, about the same angle you want the piece to lean.
- Cut it out. Use a sharp blade and a steel ruler, making several light passes instead of one heavy cut. Clean edges look more professional and hinge more evenly.
- Score a hinge line. About 1 inch below the top of the strut, lightly score a line across its width on the front face (the side that will face the artwork). Fold along it so the top tab bends back. This tab is what attaches to the artwork.
- Attach the tab. Glue the top tab to the back of the artwork, centered left to right, positioned so the foot of the strut will meet the table at the bottom edge. Press it flat under a book while it dries.
- Reinforce the hinge. Run a strip of cloth or bookbinding tape across the fold, overlapping onto both the tab and the strut. This makes the hinge far stronger than the scored board alone. For extra strength, add a second strip on the inside of the fold.
- Add the angle limiter. Cut a ribbon or cord to a length that lets the strut open to about 15 to 20 degrees. Glue and tape one end to the inside of the strut near its middle and the other end to the artwork’s back directly below. Test the opening and adjust the ribbon length before the glue sets.
- Test and finish. Stand the piece on a table and nudge it gently. It should rock back to rest without the strut sliding. If it tips forward, lengthen the ribbon slightly; if it leans too far back, shorten it.
How to Make a Wooden Easel Back for Heavier Pieces
A canvas panel, a small framed painting under glass, or anything over a pound or so needs more than board and tape. A wooden strut is still simple to make.
- Cut the strut. Use thin plywood or a pine strip, sized with the same proportions as above. Sand the edges smooth so they will not scratch furniture.
- Bevel the foot. Sand or saw a small angle at the bottom so it rests flat on the surface when the strut is open.
- Mount the hinge. Screw a small butt hinge to the top of the strut, then screw the other leaf to the back of the frame or panel. On a frame, attach to the solid wood of the frame or to a backing board that is firmly fixed to it. Pre-drill holes to prevent splitting.
- Fit the stay. Twist a small screw eye into the strut and another into the artwork’s back, and connect them with fine chain. Alternatively, use a folding brass stay of the kind used on small cabinet lids. Set the opening to around 15 to 20 degrees.
- Add felt pads. A small felt dot under the strut’s foot and under each bottom corner of the frame protects furniture and reduces sliding.
Making an Easel Back That Works in Both Orientations
Commercial frames sometimes use a strut that can rotate or slot into two positions so the piece stands portrait or landscape. You can replicate this:
- Two struts: Attach one strut for each orientation, with the unused one folded flat. Simple and reliable, though it adds bulk.
- Square strut on a center pivot: Fix a square or diamond-shaped panel to the back with a single central rivet or bolt so it rotates. Hinge a strut to the panel. Rotate the panel 90 degrees to switch orientation.
- Slot-in strut: Glue two small fabric pockets to the back, one horizontal and one vertical, and make a strut with a flat tab that slides into either pocket.
For most artists, picking one orientation per piece and attaching a single strut is enough.
Choosing the Right Angle
An angle between about 15 and 20 degrees from vertical suits most tabletop displays. It is upright enough to be seen easily from across a room and leaned back enough to be stable. A steeper lean of 25 degrees or more is more stable but tilts the image away from standing viewers and can catch overhead light as glare.
Light direction matters as much as lean. A glossy varnished painting standing under a ceiling fixture may show glare at one angle and look perfect a few degrees steeper. Test the angle in the place where the piece will actually stand before fixing the limiter permanently. The same principle applies to full-size easels; our guide to positioning an easel for good light covers how side light reduces reflections.
Common Mistakes When Making an Easel Back
- Hinging with paper tape only. Masking tape and standard paper tape weaken and peel over time. Use cloth, linen or gummed framing tape.
- Placing the strut off-center. Even a small offset makes the piece twist or lean sideways. Measure and mark the center line before gluing.
- Skipping the limiter. Without a ribbon or chain, the strut slides outward on smooth surfaces and the piece falls flat.
- Making the strut too short. A short strut lets the artwork lean back steeply, which looks awkward and shows more of the back from the side.
- Gluing directly to a canvas’s back. Stretched canvas flexes, so glue on the fabric will not hold and can show through. Attach to the stretcher bars or to a stiff backing board fixed to them.
- Ignoring weight. A board strut works for light pieces but can buckle under a heavy frame. Switch to wood and a metal hinge above about a pound.
Alternatives to a DIY Easel Back
- Tabletop display easels: Small wire, wood or acrylic easels hold pieces without modifying them at all, which suits work you want to rotate or sell.
- Self-adhesive easel backs: Framing suppliers sell ready-made cardboard struts with adhesive pads. They are quick but come in fixed sizes.
- Picture ledges: A narrow shelf with a lip lets pieces lean against a wall without any backing.
- Block stands: A wooden block with a slot cut at an angle holds thin panels and cards upright.
FAQs
What can I use to make an easel back?
Chipboard, mat board or thick card works for light items like photos and small art boards. For heavier framed pieces or panels, use thin plywood or hardboard with a small metal hinge.
How long should an easel back be?
About 70 percent of the artwork’s height is a good starting point. The strut’s foot should meet the table level with the bottom edge of the artwork when opened.
What angle should an easel back be?
Roughly 15 to 20 degrees from vertical suits most tabletop displays. Test the angle where the piece will stand to check for glare and stability.
How do I attach an easel back to a canvas?
Attach it to the wooden stretcher bars or to a stiff backing board fixed across the back of the canvas, not to the canvas fabric itself, which flexes and will not hold glue well.
What tape is best for an easel back hinge?
Cloth tape, linen bookbinding tape or gummed framing tape all hold up well. Avoid masking tape and standard clear tape, which lose grip over time.
Can I add an easel back to a store-bought frame?
Yes. Attach it to the frame’s backing board if it is firmly secured, or screw a small hinge into the frame’s wooden rail. Pre-drill to avoid splitting thin moldings.
Final Thoughts
An easel back is a small piece of engineering: a tapered strut, a strong hinge, and a limiter that holds the angle. Board and cloth tape handle light pieces; wood and a brass hinge handle heavier ones. Size the strut at about 70 percent of the artwork’s height, set the lean to 15 to 20 degrees, and test it where it will stand. When you move from displaying finished pieces to setting up your painting space, read our guide to where to place your studio easel for lighting and posture advice.
