Can You Use Printer Paper in a Cricut? Settings and Tips

Quick answer: Can you use printer paper in a Cricut? Yes. Every Cricut cutting machine, including the Joy, Explore, and Maker lines, can cut ordinary 20 lb copy paper. Use the LightGrip (blue) mat, select “Copy Paper” or “Printer Paper” as the material in Design Space, and use the Fine-Point blade. The paper’s thinness makes it ideal for Print Then Cut, layered paper art, and templates, but it tears on very fine details, is hard to weed, and can stick too firmly to a new mat. Lower the mat’s tack with a clean cotton shirt, keep designs above about a quarter inch in detail, and the results are clean.

A ream of copy paper costs less than a single pack of cardstock, which makes it the obvious thing to reach for when testing a new design or printing a sheet of stickers. The question is whether a machine designed for vinyl and cardstock handles something so thin without shredding it. It does, with a handful of settings and habits that this guide spells out.

Below is a plain explanation of how Cricut machines cut thin paper, the exact settings for each model, where printer paper excels, where it fails, and how it compares to cardstock and sticker paper. Because Print Then Cut depends on the printer as much as the cutter, the roundup of the best printers for craft and DIY projects is a useful companion for anyone building a paper-crafting setup.

How a Cricut Cuts Paper

A Cricut is a computer-controlled drag knife. The material sits on a sticky cutting mat that holds it flat while a small blade in the carriage moves across it, pressing down at a set force and following the path from Design Space. Material settings change two variables: how hard the blade presses and how many passes it makes.

Thin paper needs very little pressure. Too much and the blade cuts into the mat, drags the paper, and leaves ragged edges. Too little and the cut does not go through. Cricut’s preset for copy paper lands in the right range for standard 20 lb paper, and the “More” or “Less” pressure options in Design Space fine-tune it for heavier or lighter sheets.

The sticky mat matters as much as the blade. Paper this thin tears if the adhesive is too aggressive when you peel it off, and shifts if the adhesive is too weak during the cut. The LightGrip mat is designed for exactly this weight.

Settings by Cricut Model

MachineMaterial settingMatBladeNotes
Cricut Maker / Maker 3Copy Paper (or Printer Paper)LightGrip (blue)Fine-PointAdaptive tool system is fine; no need for the Rotary blade
Cricut Explore Air 2 / Explore 3Dial to Custom, then choose Copy Paper in Design SpaceLightGrip (blue)Fine-PointOn Air 2, the “Paper” dial position cuts too deep for copy paper
Cricut Joy / Joy XtraCopy PaperLightGrip (blue) Joy matJoy Fine-PointSmaller mat; letter-size paper needs trimming for the original Joy
Cricut VentureCopy PaperLightGrip performance matFine-PointMat is wide; keep paper aligned to the top-left grid

If the cut does not quite release, choose “More” pressure in the material dropdown before trying a second pass; a full second pass on thin paper often tears what the first pass nearly cut.

Step-by-Step: Cutting Printer Paper on a Cricut

  1. Season a new mat. A fresh LightGrip mat is sticky enough to tear copy paper on removal. Press a clean cotton T-shirt onto the mat a few times to pull off some tack, or use a mat that has already seen a few projects.
  2. Place the paper aligned to the grid. Line the top-left corner of the sheet with the top-left corner of the mat grid and smooth it down with a brayer or scraper from the center out. Bubbles under the paper cause skipped cuts.
  3. Select the material. In Design Space, type “copy” into the material search and choose Copy Paper. On an Explore Air 2, set the dial to Custom first.
  4. Confirm the blade. Fine-Point blade in clamp B. Check that no fibers or vinyl scraps are stuck to the tip.
  5. Load and cut. Load the mat and press Go. Do not touch the mat while it cuts.
  6. Check before unloading. With the mat still loaded, lift a corner of the design. If it is not cut through, press Go again for a second pass at the same alignment. Only unload once satisfied.
  7. Remove paper from the mat, not mat from the paper. Flip the mat upside down and peel the mat away from the paper, curling the mat. Pulling thin paper up off a flat mat is what causes tearing and curling.
  8. Weed with a spatula. Slide the Cricut spatula or a thin palette knife under small pieces rather than lifting them with fingers or tweezers.

Where Printer Paper Works Best

Print Then Cut

This is the headline use. Design Space prints a design with registration marks on a home printer, then the Cricut reads the marks with its sensor and cuts around the printed shapes. Plain copy paper is the default material for this feature, and it is how most people make custom stickers, labels, tags, planner inserts, and party printables. Both inkjet and laser prints work, though matte paper reads more reliably than glossy under the sensor.

Two limits apply. Print Then Cut has a maximum printable area, roughly 6.75 by 9.25 inches on most machines, so a full letter sheet is never used edge to edge. And the sensor needs good lighting and clean registration marks; smudged or faint marks lead to misaligned cuts.

Templates, stencils, and test cuts

Before cutting an expensive sheet of cardstock or specialty vinyl, cutting the design from copy paper confirms the size and layout at almost no cost. Copy paper templates also serve as sewing patterns, placement guides for vinyl, and one-use stencils for sponge painting.

Layered paper art and shadow boxes

Lightweight layers stack without bulk, which is useful for multi-layer designs where cardstock would get thick. Paper this thin also lets light through, so it suits lantern panels and backlit layered scenes.

Confetti, tags, and bulk shapes

Hundreds of small circles, hearts, or leaves cut from a single sheet, cheaply. Keep each shape at least half an inch across to avoid tearing.

Kids’ projects and classrooms

Cost per failed cut is near zero, so children can experiment without anyone wincing.

Where Printer Paper Falls Short

Intricate designs. Lace patterns, mandalas, and script fonts with thin connecting strokes tear during cutting or weeding. The practical floor is around a quarter inch for any detail, and 3/8 inch is safer for text.

Structural projects. Boxes, cards that must stand up, 3D flowers, and anything that needs to hold a shape are cardstock jobs. Copy paper folds limply and collapses.

Weeding. Removing the cut-out negative space from thin paper is slow and tearing is common. Designs with few small holes are far easier.

Curling. Thin paper curls as it comes off the mat and as humidity changes. Press finished pieces under a book for an hour if they need to lie flat.

Blade wear showing early. A slightly dull Fine-Point blade cuts cardstock acceptably but tears copy paper. Thin paper is a good indicator that the blade is due for replacement.

Printer Paper vs Cardstock vs Sticker Paper

FactorCopy paper (20 lb)Cardstock (65 lb cover)Printable sticker paper
ThicknessAbout 0.004 inAbout 0.009 to 0.012 inAbout 0.006 to 0.008 in with backing
MatLightGripStandardGrip (green)StandardGrip or LightGrip
Minimum safe detailAbout 1/4 inchAbout 1/8 inchAbout 1/4 inch
Print Then CutYes, defaultYes, with cardstock settingYes, with kiss-cut option
Weeding difficultyHardEasyModerate
Holds a 3D shapeNoYesNo
Cost per sheetLowestModerateHigher
Best useTests, printables, layered flat artCards, boxes, decorLabels and stickers

Troubleshooting Printer Paper Cuts

Paper tears instead of cutting. Blade is dull or pressure is too high. Replace the blade, confirm Copy Paper is selected, and choose “Less” pressure if the setting was customized upward.

Cut did not go all the way through. Select “More” pressure and run a second pass without unloading. Also check the paper is flat; a bubble leaves a skipped section.

Paper shifts during the cut. Mat has lost its tack. Clean it with a lint roller or gentle soapy water and let it dry fully; replace if it no longer holds.

Paper rips coming off the mat. Mat is too sticky or you are lifting the paper. Season the mat and peel the mat away from the paper while bending the mat.

Print Then Cut sensor error. Glare on glossy paper, dim room, or marks printed too light. Use matte paper, add light, and print at normal rather than draft quality.

Edges fuzzy. Common on very cheap, high-recycled-content paper with loose fibers. A brighter, smoother paper cuts cleaner, and a fresh blade helps.

Paper Weights Beyond Standard Copy Paper

“Printer paper” covers a range. The Copy Paper preset is tuned for 20 lb bond (75 gsm). Lighter 16 lb paper tears more easily and may need “Less” pressure. Heavier 24 lb and 28 lb bond, common in office premium paper, cut well with the same preset or with “More” pressure. Inkjet photo paper and matte presentation paper at 32 lb or above behave more like light cardstock and should use the Light Cardstock setting on a StandardGrip mat.

Recycled paper with visible fibers, colored copy paper, and tracing paper all cut on the Copy Paper setting, though tracing paper benefits from being taped at the edges because it is slippery on the mat.

Tips for Better Results

  • Use the Print Then Cut bleed option so small registration drift does not leave white edges on printed stickers.
  • Weld or simplify script fonts so letters share a single outline rather than many tiny cuts.
  • Keep a dedicated paper blade. A blade used only for paper stays sharp far longer than one that also cuts glitter cardstock or vinyl.
  • Mirror nothing. Unlike iron-on vinyl, paper designs cut face up.
  • Store paper flat and dry. Humid, wavy sheets do not sit flat on the mat.
  • Trim letter paper to 8.5 by 11 exactly if it has been handled; dog-eared corners catch under the rollers.

FAQs

What setting do you use for printer paper on a Cricut?

Choose Copy Paper (sometimes listed as Printer Paper) in Design Space with the Fine-Point blade on a LightGrip blue mat. On an Explore Air 2, turn the dial to Custom first so the software setting applies.

Can a Cricut Joy cut regular printer paper?

Yes. Use the Joy LightGrip mat and the Copy Paper setting. The original Joy mat is 4.5 inches wide, so a letter sheet must be trimmed to fit; the Joy Xtra accepts 8.5 by 11 sheets.

Can you use printer paper for Print Then Cut?

Yes, it is the standard material for Print Then Cut. Use matte paper rather than glossy so the sensor reads the registration marks, and keep designs inside the printable area limit.

Why does my Cricut tear printer paper?

Usually a dull blade, too much pressure, or a mat that is too sticky when the paper is removed. Replace the blade, confirm the Copy Paper setting, season new mats, and peel the mat away from the paper rather than the other way around.

Do you need a special mat for thin paper?

The LightGrip (blue) mat is designed for it. A StandardGrip mat will hold copy paper but makes removal without tearing difficult, especially when new.

Can you cut colored or recycled printer paper on a Cricut?

Yes, on the Copy Paper setting. Recycled paper with loose fibers may cut with slightly fuzzier edges; a fresh blade and a smoother paper stock improve results.

Final Thoughts

Copy paper is a first-class Cricut material as long as you treat it like the thin sheet it is: blue mat, Copy Paper setting, sharp blade, and a peel that bends the mat instead of the paper. Use it for printables, tests, and flat layered designs, and leave structural work to cardstock. For Print Then Cut especially, the printer does half the job, so a model that handles plain paper with sharp, well-registered output pays off; the comparison of printers that suit DIY and crafting work looks at exactly those qualities, and crafters expanding into physical objects can find machines in the guide to the best 3D printers for DIY projects.

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Md Jomiruddin Sobuj

Md Jomiruddin Sobuj is the founder and editor of PaintingProGuide. He comes to art supplies from digital publishing rather than from a studio, and the site reflects that: every guide here is built from manufacturer specifications, product documentation and the patterns that show up across hundreds of real user reviews — the details that predict how a brush, a paint or an easel actually behaves once you are using it. He writes or edits every article on the site and is accountable for what each one says, including telling you when a product is wrong for you. Corrections and questions are genuinely welcome at contact@paintingproguide.com.

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