How to Choose a Frame Size for Paintings and Prints

Quick answer: To choose a frame size, measure the artwork’s height and width in inches, decide whether you want a mat, and then pick the frame opening that matches the artwork (no mat) or sits 1.5 to 3 inches smaller than the mat’s outer edge (with mat). Standard sizes such as 8×10, 11×14, 16×20, 18×24 and 24×36 cover most prints and paintings. If your piece is an odd size, either add a mat to bridge the gap or order a custom frame.

Picking the wrong frame size is the most common reason a finished painting looks cheap on the wall. The frame is too tight, the mat is too thin, or the opening is a quarter inch off and the artwork sags or won’t fit at all. The good news is that how to choose a frame size comes down to a handful of measurements and one or two decisions about proportion.

If you intend to buy off the shelf, a roundup of ready made frames for canvas paintings shows which sizes are widely stocked. This guide walks through the process in order: measuring, deciding on a mat, matching the result to a standard size, and checking the frame against the wall it will hang on. It also covers canvas, which follows slightly different rules than paper.

Step 1: Measure the Artwork Correctly

Everything else depends on this number, so measure twice and write it down. Use a rigid ruler or a metal tape measure and record height first, then width. Framers always list height before width, and mixing them up is how people end up ordering a landscape frame for a portrait piece.

  1. Measure the full sheet or canvas. For paper, measure edge to edge, including any white border. For stretched canvas, measure the face of the canvas from outside edge to outside edge.
  2. Measure the image area separately if there is a white border you want to hide behind a mat. This is the visible painted or printed area only.
  3. Check the thickness. For canvas, measure the depth of the stretcher bars. Common depths are about 0.75 inch (standard) and about 1.5 inches (gallery wrap). This decides which frame style will physically fit.
  4. Check that the corners are square. Measure both diagonals. If they differ by more than a few millimeters, the piece is slightly out of square and you will want a little extra room in the frame.
  5. Record everything in inches to the nearest sixteenth if possible, because US frames are sold in inches.

If the artwork was cut by hand or painted on a loose sheet, the measurements may not be tidy, such as 10.25 by 13.75 inches. That is fine. It simply means you will probably need a mat or a custom frame rather than a standard opening.

Step 2: Decide Whether You Want a Mat

A mat is the paper-based border between the artwork and the frame. It does three jobs: it gives the image visual breathing room, it keeps the artwork from touching the glass, and it lets you use a standard frame for a non-standard piece.

As a rule, works on paper (watercolor, gouache, ink, pastel, prints, photographs) generally look better with a mat. Canvas paintings are normally framed without one, because canvas is a thick object and a mat would sit awkwardly over it.

How wide should the mat be?

A mat border of 2 to 3 inches suits most pieces from 8×10 up to 16×20. Larger works can carry 3 to 4 inches. A very small piece, such as a 5×7, can look refined with a mat that is wider than you’d expect, 2 inches or more, because the extra space adds presence.

Many framers set the bottom border slightly wider than the top and sides, often by about half an inch. This is called a weighted bottom, and it stops the image from looking like it is sliding downward when viewed on a wall.

What is the mat overlap?

The mat window is cut slightly smaller than the artwork so the edges are held in place. Typically the overlap is about a quarter inch on each side. So a 8×10 print is shown through a window of roughly 7.5 x 9.5 inches. Keep this in mind when you decide how much of the image will be visible.

Step 3: Work Out the Frame Size

This is where people most often get confused, because frames are labeled by the artwork or mat size they hold, not by their outer dimensions. A frame sold as “16×20” has an opening that takes a 16×20 inch piece. The outside edge of that frame may be 18×22 inches or more depending on the molding width.

Without a mat

Choose a frame whose labeled size equals your artwork size. A 16×20 canvas panel or print needs a 16×20 frame. If your artwork is a hair smaller, that is usually fine because it will be held in place by backing and clips. If it is even a little larger, it won’t go in.

With a mat

Add the mat border to the visible image size, on all sides, and the total is your frame size. For example:

  • A 5×7 inch image with a 2-inch mat border is 9×11 inches, so a standard 9×12 or 11×14 frame would get you close, and you adjust the border to fill the gap.
  • An 8×10 inch image with a 3-inch border is 14×16 inches, which suits a 16×20 frame with a slightly wider border or a 14×18 custom frame.
  • An 11×14 inch image with a 2.5-inch border is 16×19 inches, so a standard 16×20 frame works with the extra inch used as additional border.

The trick is that the mat can be cut to fill any space. You pick the frame size first, and the mat window is cut to suit the art. This is why a single 16×20 frame can display a 5×7 print or an 11×14 painting.

Standard Frame Sizes and What They Suit

Ready-made frames come in a fairly consistent set of sizes. The table below lists the common ones and the kind of artwork they usually hold. Treat it as a starting guide rather than a rule.

Frame size (inches) Typical use Mat option
5×7 Small prints, postcards, sketches Often unmatted or with a very narrow mat
8×10 Small paintings, photos, studies Mat for 5×7 images
9×12 Watercolor pads, paper studies Mat for 6×8 images
11×14 Medium prints and paper works Mat for 8×10 images
12×16 Canvas panels, paper studies Mat for 9×12 images
16×20 Medium paintings, larger prints Mat for 11×14 images
18×24 Posters, medium-large canvases Mat for 12×16 or 13×19 images
24×36 Posters, large canvases Mat for 18×24 images

A print labeled A4 or A3 is metric and does not match US sizes exactly. An A4 sheet is about 8.27 x 11.69 inches, which is slightly narrower and taller than 8.5×11, so it usually fits an 8.5×11 frame with a little shift, or looks best with a mat in an 11×14 frame.

Ready Made Frame Sizes vs. Custom

Many readers search for ready made frame sizes because they want to avoid custom framing costs. That is a sensible approach for most hobby work, since standard openings are cheaper and available quickly. If you plan to buy off the shelf, it helps to compare what is on offer in a dedicated guide to standard frames for canvas work and see which sizes and depths are commonly stocked.

Custom framing makes sense when:

  • The artwork is an unusual proportion, such as a long panoramic format.
  • The piece is valuable and needs conservation-grade materials.
  • You want the frame to match another frame in the room precisely.
  • The canvas depth does not fit any stocked frame rabbet.

For everything else, planning around a standard size by adjusting the mat is usually the economical route.

Framing a Canvas: A Few Extra Rules

Canvas is not framed like paper. There is no glass, no mat, and often no need to hide the edges. Three things matter:

  • Rabbet depth. The rabbet is the groove at the back of the frame that holds the artwork. It must be deeper than the canvas stretcher bar, or the canvas will protrude. A standard 0.75-inch canvas needs about 1 inch of rabbet depth. A gallery-wrapped canvas of 1.5 inches needs a deeper frame.
  • Floater frames. These leave a small gap, typically around 0.25 inch, between the canvas edge and the frame, so the canvas appears to float inside it. When ordering a floater, you pick the frame by the canvas size, and the gap is built in.
  • Traditional frames. These overlap the front of the canvas by about 0.25 to 0.5 inch on each side. If the edges of your painting wrap around and carry important detail, measure this overlap into your plan so you don’t lose it.

If you are unsure how much of the painting a traditional frame will cover, cut a template from cardboard with an opening 0.5 inch smaller than the canvas on each side and hold it over the front. That shows you what disappears.

Step 4: Match the Frame to the Wall and the Room

A technically correct frame size can still look wrong on the wall. Scale and spacing matter as much as fit.

Single piece over furniture

A common guideline is that the artwork, including its frame, should be roughly two-thirds to three-quarters of the width of the furniture beneath it. A sofa that is 84 inches wide suits art that is about 56 to 63 inches wide, whether that is one large piece or a grouped arrangement. Hang the center of the piece at about 57 to 60 inches from the floor, which puts it near eye level for most adults.

Gallery walls

For a group arrangement, mix sizes but keep spacing consistent, usually 2 to 3 inches between frames. Lay everything on the floor first, or cut paper templates and tape them to the wall. Choosing a few frame colors rather than many helps the group look intentional.

Small art on a big wall

A small piece surrounded by a large amount of empty wall looks lost. If you only have an 8×10 painting, a larger frame with a generous mat, say a 16×20 overall, gives it enough presence to hold its own.

How to Choose a Picture Frame Style Once the Size Is Set

Once you know the size, the next question is how to choose a picture frame that suits the artwork rather than competes with it. Consider these factors:

  • Molding width. Thin frames (under 1 inch) feel modern and light. Wider molding (2 inches and up) suits large paintings and traditional rooms.
  • Color and finish. Black and white are the safest. Natural wood warms a cool painting. Gold and silver suit classic oil work.
  • Glazing. Glass, acrylic and anti-glare options matter for works on paper. Acrylic is lighter and less prone to shattering, which helps for large pieces.
  • Backing and hardware. A sturdy back and proper hangers matter more as size grows. Large frames should use two hangers or a wire rated for the weight.

Keep the frame quieter than the painting. If the artwork is busy and colorful, a plain, narrow frame gives the eye a rest. If the artwork is soft and subtle, a stronger frame can add definition.

Common Frame Sizing Mistakes

  • Ordering from the outside dimensions. Frame size is the opening, not the outside edge. Always check which one a listing shows.
  • Forgetting the mat overlap. A print that is “8×10” will show only about 7.5 x 9.5 inches through a mat window.
  • Swapping height and width. Write height first and keep that order every time.
  • Ignoring canvas depth. A frame with too shallow a rabbet leaves the canvas sticking out the back or forces it forward.
  • Choosing a frame that is too small for the wall. Undersized frames look timid. When in doubt, go up one size and add a mat.
  • Trimming the artwork to fit. Cutting a painting down is permanent. It is usually better to use a mat or custom frame.

Quick Worked Examples

Example 1: A 9×12 inch watercolor on paper

Measure the full sheet, 9×12. Decide on a 2-inch mat. Total outer size is 13×16. A standard 16×20 frame is a bit larger, so widen the mat border to about 3.5 inches. The alternative is a 14×18 or 12×16 frame with a thinner mat, if you can find one. Either way, the artwork is shown at the same size and the frame size is chosen for the wall.

Example 2: An 18×24 inch acrylic on stretched canvas

No mat is needed. Check the canvas depth. If it is 0.75 inch, a standard 18×24 frame with a rabbet of 1 inch or more will hold it. If you prefer a floater look, order an 18×24 floater frame, which will leave a small gap around the painting.

Example 3: A 6×6 inch square study

Square formats are less common in stock frames. Mat it into an 8×10 frame with a square window cut in the center, using about a 1-inch border on the sides and an extra inch at the bottom, or use a 12×12 frame with a 3-inch border for a more gallery-like effect.

FAQs

How do I choose a frame size for a canvas painting?

Measure the canvas height and width and buy a frame with the same labeled size. Then check that the frame rabbet is deeper than the stretcher bar. For a floater frame, order by canvas size and the gap is built in.

Should the frame be bigger than the picture?

The opening should be the same size as the picture or mat, but the visible frame will always be larger overall because of the molding. If you want the artwork to look bigger on the wall, add a mat or choose a wider frame rather than shrinking the image area.

What size frame do I need for an 8×10 print?

For a full 8×10 image with no mat, an 8×10 frame. If you want a mat, an 11×14 frame with a mat window cut for 8×10 is a common choice. For a smaller visible area, you can use a 16×20 frame with a wide mat.

What happens if my artwork is slightly too big for the frame?

It will not fit and should not be forced. Choose the next standard size up and add a mat, or order a custom frame. Cutting the artwork should be a last resort.

Is the frame size the outside or inside dimension?

Almost always the inside, meaning the opening that holds the artwork. The outer size is larger and varies by molding width, so check the product details if wall space is tight.

How much bigger than the artwork should a mat be?

A border of 2 to 3 inches is a reliable range for mid-size pieces. Smaller works can take wider proportional borders, and large works can go up to 4 inches or more.

Final Thoughts

Choosing a frame size is a matter of measuring accurately, deciding on a mat, and then selecting the nearest standard size so you aren’t paying for custom work you don’t need. Keep the frame quieter than the art, check the rabbet depth for canvas, and think about the wall as well as the artwork.

When you are ready to compare options and sizes for canvas work, the guide to display solutions for canvas paintings is a good next step.

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Md Jomiruddin Sobuj

Md Jomiruddin Sobuj is the founder and editor of PaintingProGuide. He comes to art supplies from digital publishing rather than from a studio, and the site reflects that: every guide here is built from manufacturer specifications, product documentation and the patterns that show up across hundreds of real user reviews — the details that predict how a brush, a paint or an easel actually behaves once you are using it. He writes or edits every article on the site and is accountable for what each one says, including telling you when a product is wrong for you. Corrections and questions are genuinely welcome at contact@paintingproguide.com.

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