A homemade brush cleaner has two halves: the liquid that loosens paint, and the container that lets you scrub brushes without wrecking them. Commercial versions combine both, but you can craft a capable setup from a glass jar, a coil or screen, and a few pantry and hardware-store ingredients. This guide shows how to craft a brush cleaner from scratch, with recipes matched to acrylic, oil and watercolor, and a step-by-step build for a DIY cleaning jar.
Quick answer: To craft a brush cleaner, mix a cleaning solution suited to your paint (dish soap and warm water for acrylic and watercolor; vegetable oil followed by soap, or odorless mineral spirits, for oil paint) and pour it into a lidded glass jar fitted with a raised metal coil or mesh screen. The screen gives bristles something to rub against while sludge sinks below, so the liquid above stays cleaner for longer.
What You Are Building and Why It Works
Brushes get clean through three actions: dissolving or loosening paint, mechanical rubbing to work it out of the hairs, and separating the dirty residue from the liquid you are rinsing in. A plain cup of water handles the first action poorly and the third not at all. Every swish stirs the settled pigment back up and redeposits it in the bristles.
A purpose-made cleaner solves this with a raised grid or coil a short distance above the bottom of the container. Paint particles sink through the grid, and the brush only touches the cleaner liquid above. That is the design used by most commercial brush washers, and the reason our guide to the best brush cleaning jars for painters pays close attention to screen design and lid seals.
Materials and Tools
For the jar
- A clear glass jar with a tight lid, roughly 16 to 32 ounces. Wide-mouth canning jars work well.
- A stainless steel coil or spring that fits inside the jar (a spare kitchen whisk head, a heavy spring, or coiled stainless wire), or a piece of stainless mesh.
- Small stainless or glass spacers, such as a shot glass, washers or a cut ring of stainless pipe, to raise the screen.
- Pliers and wire cutters.
- Optional: a second lid with a hole cut for brushes, and a silicone mat underneath.
For the cleaning solutions
- Mild dish soap.
- Warm water.
- Vegetable oil, such as safflower, sunflower or another inexpensive neutral oil.
- Odorless mineral spirits (for traditional oil painters who use solvent).
- Isopropyl alcohol, 70 to 91 percent, for softening dried acrylic.
- Optional: white vinegar, glycerin or hair conditioner.
Safety items
- Nitrile gloves.
- Paper towels or lint-free rags.
- A metal container with a lid for oily rags.
How to Craft a Brush Cleaner Jar: Step by Step
- Choose the jar. Glass resists solvents and lets you see when sludge needs dumping. Avoid most plastics if you plan to use mineral spirits or alcohol.
- Measure the inside diameter. The screen or coil should sit snugly without touching the jar walls too tightly, so you can lift it out to clean.
- Prepare the screen. If using mesh, cut a circle about a quarter inch smaller than the inside diameter, and fold the edges under to remove sharp ends. If using wire, coil it into a flat spiral or a tight spring about 1 to 1.5 inches tall.
- Add spacers. Set two or three small stainless washers, a short ring of pipe or a short glass inside the jar so the screen rests about 1 to 1.5 inches above the bottom. This gap holds the sediment.
- Seat the screen. Place the mesh or coil on the spacers. Press lightly to check it does not wobble.
- Test fit with a brush. Lower a brush in and gently rub the bristles across the screen. They should touch the screen without reaching the bottom.
- Add the cleaning liquid. Fill to about an inch above the screen. More liquid means more splashing; less means the brush does not get submerged.
- Label the jar. Write the liquid and the paint type on the lid, such as “OMS – oils only” or “soap water – acrylic.”
Optional upgrades
- Brush-hole lid: drill or punch a few holes in a spare lid so brushes can stand upright while you paint, hairs above the liquid.
- Two-jar system: one jar for the first, dirty rinse, a second for a cleaner final rinse.
- Stand: set the jar inside a weighted base or a larger container so it cannot tip.
How to Craft a Brush Cleaner Solution: Recipes by Paint Type
Each recipe below uses common materials. Adjust quantities to your jar size.
Recipe 1: Everyday acrylic and watercolor cleaner
- 2 cups warm water
- 1 teaspoon mild dish soap
- Optional: a few drops of glycerin or hair conditioner to keep natural hair supple
Stir gently to avoid excess foam. Use for rinsing during and after sessions, then finish with a clean water rinse.
Recipe 2: Gentle oil paint cleaner without solvent
- Neutral vegetable oil, enough to cover the screen by about half an inch
- Bar or liquid soap for the final wash
Work the brush in the oil, wipe on a rag, repeat until little color comes out, then wash thoroughly with soap and warm water. This method avoids solvent fumes. Make sure all oil is washed out before storing the brush, or it can turn sticky over time.
Recipe 3: Traditional oil cleaner with odorless mineral spirits
- Odorless mineral spirits, enough to cover the screen by about an inch
Rinse the brush on the screen, wipe on a rag, then wash with soap and water. Keep the lid closed when not in use. Over days, pigment settles below the screen; you can carefully pour off the clear spirits into a second jar and reuse them.
Recipe 4: Dried acrylic softening soak
- Isopropyl alcohol, 70 to 91 percent
Soak only the bristles, not the ferrule, for 15 to 30 minutes, then work softened paint out with fingers or a brush comb and wash with soap. Repeat if needed. Alcohol is drying, so condition natural hair afterward.
Recipe 5: Vinegar soak for stubborn latex or acrylic
- White vinegar, warmed (not boiling)
Some painters soak stiff brushes in warm vinegar for an hour, then wash with soap. Results vary, and it works best on thinner layers. Rinse thoroughly afterward.
Recipe Comparison
| Recipe | Paint | Strength | Odor | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Soap and water | Acrylic, watercolor, gouache | Mild | None | Daily use; finish with a clean rinse |
| Vegetable oil then soap | Oil | Mild to moderate | Low | Slower but solvent-free |
| Odorless mineral spirits | Oil, alkyd | Strong | Low to moderate | Flammable; ventilate |
| Isopropyl alcohol | Dried acrylic | Strong | Moderate | Drying on hair; keep off ferrule |
| Warm vinegar | Dried acrylic, latex | Mild | Moderate | Inconsistent; best on thin buildup |
How to Craft a Brush for Cleaning Other Brushes
A few artists also make a simple “brush comb” or scrubbing tool to help work paint out of the ferrule. Two easy options:
- Fine-tooth comb: an inexpensive metal or plastic comb, used gently from the ferrule toward the tip to lift softened paint.
- Textured scrub pad: glue a piece of silicone dish mat, with its raised nubs facing up, inside a shallow dish. Swirl soapy brushes across it to work lather into the hairs without grinding them on a hard surface.
Both are kinder to bristles than scrubbing a brush on the bottom of a jar.
Using Your Homemade Brush Cleaner
- Wipe first. Squeeze paint out into a rag before you touch the cleaner. This keeps your jar cleaner for longer.
- Rub across the screen. Use light, back-and-forth strokes rather than grinding the tip straight down.
- Wipe again. Press the bristles in a paper towel to remove loosened paint.
- Repeat until the rag shows little color.
- Wash with soap and water. This step removes the cleaning liquid itself, which is just as important as removing paint.
- Reshape and dry the brush flat or tip-up.
Maintaining the Jar
- Let it settle. After a session, close the lid and let sediment fall below the screen.
- Decant and reuse. For solvent jars, carefully pour clear liquid into a second container, scrape out the sludge, and pour the clear liquid back.
- Dispose properly. Let sludge dry, then follow local hazardous waste guidance. Do not pour solvent or heavy pigment sludge down drains.
- Replace water-based solutions often. Soapy water can grow bacteria if left for days.
- Clean the screen. Lift it out and wipe it occasionally so dried paint does not build up on the wires.
Troubleshooting Your DIY Brush Cleaner
The liquid turns muddy within minutes
The screen is probably sitting too close to the bottom, so each stroke stirs the sediment back up. Raise it with taller spacers, aiming for at least an inch of clearance, and wipe brushes on a rag before they go in so less paint enters the jar in the first place.
Bristles are fraying faster than before
Sharp wire ends or coarse mesh can cut hairs. File or fold any cut edges, switch to a smoother coil, and use light sideways strokes rather than pushing the tip into the screen. Soft watercolor brushes rarely need the screen at all; a swirl in clean water is enough.
Brushes feel greasy after the oil method
Vegetable oil was left in the hairs. Wash twice with soap and warm water, working lather into the ferrule, until the brush feels squeaky rather than slick.
The lid will not seal or the solvent evaporates
Canning lids sometimes warp if solvent sits against them. Replace the lid, keep the liquid level below the rim, and store the jar upright and away from heat.
Soapy water smells sour
Bacteria are growing in old water. Dump it, wash the jar and screen, and mix a fresh batch for each session.
Safety Notes for DIY Cleaners
- Never mix solvents with each other or with bleach.
- Keep alcohol and mineral spirits away from flames and heat.
- Work in a ventilated room and wear gloves when handling solvents.
- Store oily rags in a closed metal container or lay them flat to dry outdoors. Rags soaked with drying oils like linseed can self-heat as they cure.
- Label every jar clearly, and keep them out of reach of children and pets.
DIY vs Store-Bought Brush Cleaning Jars
A homemade jar works well, but commercial washers solve a few problems more neatly.
| Feature | DIY jar | Commercial cleaning jar |
|---|---|---|
| Cost | Very low | Low to moderate |
| Screen fit | Depends on your build | Precisely fitted coil or grid |
| Lid seal | Good with canning jars | Usually gasketed for solvents |
| Stability | Can tip if tall and narrow | Often weighted or wide-based |
| Brush holder | Optional add-on | Often built in |
If you outgrow the DIY version or want a sealed, spill-resistant washer for solvent, see our comparison of brush washing jars with coils and leakproof lids.
FAQs
How to craft brush cleaner at home?
For acrylic and watercolor, mix about a teaspoon of mild dish soap into two cups of warm water. For oil paint, use vegetable oil followed by a soap wash, or odorless mineral spirits followed by soap. Pour the solution into a glass jar with a raised screen.
How to craft brush for cleaning paint brushes?
A fine-tooth comb or a silicone dish mat glued into a shallow tray makes a simple cleaning tool. Use it gently with soapy water to work paint out of the base of the hairs.
What can I use instead of a brush cleaning coil?
Stainless mesh, a stainless whisk head, a heavy spring, or a perforated stainless disc all work. The key is a surface raised above the bottom so sludge settles below the brush.
Is homemade brush cleaner safe for natural hair brushes?
Soap and water and vegetable oil are gentle. Alcohol and solvents can dry natural hair, so condition the brush afterward and keep soaks short.
Can I use a plastic jar for brush cleaner?
For water and soap, yes. For mineral spirits, alcohol or acetone, glass or metal is safer, since some plastics soften or crack.
How often should I change the cleaning solution?
Change water-based solutions after each session. Solvent can be settled, decanted and reused several times until it stays cloudy.
Next Step
Crafting a brush cleaner takes a glass jar, a raised screen and a solution matched to your paint. It is an inexpensive way to keep pigment out of your bristles and to stretch your solvent further. When you are ready for a sturdier, sealed version or a second jar for a two-step rinse, compare our picks for brush cleaning jars that keep sludge away from your bristles.
