A brush holder does two jobs: it keeps brushes where you can grab them, and it keeps their heads from being bent, crushed or soaked. The second job is the one most homemade holders get wrong. A jar crammed with brushes looks tidy, but heads rub against each other and wet tips drip into the ferrules. The good news is that a well-designed holder is easy to make from wood scraps, a tin can, fabric or a bamboo mat. Below are six projects that show how to craft a brush holder for different needs, from a desktop block to a travel roll and a hanging dryer.
Quick answer: To craft a brush holder, choose a design that keeps each brush separated and the heads off any surface. The simplest options are a wooden block drilled with angled holes, a weighted tin can with a divider grid, or a fabric or bamboo roll with individual slots. Size holes or slots to your handle diameters, add weight or a wide base so the holder will not tip, and seal wood so it resists water and paint.
What Makes a Good Brush Holder
Before choosing a project, it helps to know the features that protect brushes:
- Separation. Each brush has its own hole, slot or compartment, so heads do not grind together.
- Heads up or heads free. Brushes stand with hairs upward, or lie or hang with nothing pressing on the hair.
- Stability. Long-handled brushes make a holder top-heavy. A wide or weighted base prevents tipping.
- Airflow. Damp brushes need air to dry, so avoid sealed containers unless brushes are already dry.
- Easy cleaning. Paint drips happen. Sealed wood, metal or washable fabric is easier to maintain.
Commercial holders tend to get these details right, and our guide to the best brush holders for an artist’s studio is useful for comparing designs before you build your own version.
Project 1: Drilled Wooden Block Holder
This is the classic studio holder: a solid block with holes that keep brushes upright and evenly spaced.
Materials
- A hardwood or softwood block, about 2 inches thick, 3 to 4 inches deep and 8 to 14 inches long
- Drill with brad-point or Forstner bits, typically 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch, plus a smaller bit for detail brushes
- Ruler, pencil and square
- Sandpaper, 120 and 220 grit
- Wood finish: polyurethane, wipe-on oil-varnish or wax
- Optional: felt or cork pads for the base
Steps
- Measure your handles. Check the thickest part of each handle where it will sit in the hole. Most artist brushes fall between about 1/4 and 1/2 inch.
- Plan the layout. Mark two or three staggered rows, spacing hole centers at least 1 inch apart so heads do not touch. Put larger holes in the back row for long-handled brushes.
- Choose an angle. Holes drilled straight down keep brushes vertical. Holes angled back about 10 to 15 degrees make brushes easier to see and grab. A scrap wedge under the block guides a consistent angle.
- Drill the holes. Drill about 1 to 1.5 inches deep, slightly wider than the handle so brushes slide in without forcing. Use a piece of tape on the bit as a depth marker.
- Sand everything. Smooth edges and hole openings so they do not scratch handles.
- Seal the wood. Apply two or three thin coats of finish, sanding lightly between coats. Make sure the finish is fully cured before use.
- Add pads. Stick felt or cork to the base to protect your table.
Best for: dry brushes on a desk or taboret. Do not put dripping brushes in it, since water collects in the holes.
Project 2: Weighted Tin Can Holder With Divider Grid
A tin can becomes a far better holder once it has weight in the bottom and a grid on top that separates handles.
Materials
- A clean metal can with no sharp rim (use a safety can opener)
- Dry rice, beans, gravel or sand for weight
- Stiff wire mesh, hardware cloth or a plastic canvas sheet
- Wire cutters and pliers
- Strong glue or epoxy
- Paint, washi tape or cord for decoration
Steps
- Prepare the can. Wash and dry it. File or tape any rough edges.
- Add weight. Pour 1 to 2 inches of rice, beans, gravel or sand into the bottom. You can seal it in a zip bag for easy removal.
- Cut the grid. Cut a circle of hardware cloth or plastic canvas just smaller than the can opening. Fold sharp wire ends down with pliers.
- Fit the grid. Press it in about half an inch below the rim, or glue it to the rim. Each opening should hold one or two handles.
- Decorate. Paint the outside, wrap it with cord or tape, or add labels for brush types.
Best for: quick-access brushes on a crowded desk, and keeping brushes separated without drilling.
Project 3: Fabric Brush Roll
A roll protects brushes in transit and in storage drawers. It is one of the most useful holders you can sew.
Materials
- Two pieces of sturdy fabric (canvas, denim, duck cloth), about 16 x 14 inches each, or sized to your longest brush
- One pocket strip, about 16 x 8 inches
- Ribbon, cord or elastic for ties
- Thread, pins and a sewing machine or needle
- Ruler and fabric chalk
Steps
- Measure your longest brush and add about 2 inches to determine roll height.
- Hem the pocket strip along its top edge.
- Pin the strip to one main fabric piece, aligned with the bottom edge.
- Mark slot lines vertically on the pocket strip, about 1 to 1.5 inches apart for small brushes and 2 inches for large ones.
- Stitch along each line through both layers to create individual slots.
- Add a top flap. Fold or sew an extra flap of fabric that folds over the brush heads. This is the step that protects the hairs.
- Place the second main piece on top, right sides together, insert the tie at one side, and stitch around the edges, leaving a gap.
- Turn right side out, press flat, and topstitch around the edge to close the gap.
Best for: plein air kits, classes and long-term storage of dry brushes.
Project 4: Bamboo Mat Brush Roll (No Sewing)
A bamboo sushi mat or placemat makes a quick, breathable roll.
Materials
- A bamboo mat about the length of your brushes
- Elastic cord or thin hair elastics
- Large needle or awl
- Ribbon or cord for ties
Steps
- Lay the mat flat with the slats running horizontally.
- Thread elastic through the mat in a zigzag about one third of the way up, leaving small loops at intervals that will hold each handle.
- Test fit brushes and adjust loop spacing.
- Attach a tie to one end.
- Roll and secure. Brushes stay in place while air passes between the slats.
Best for: drying slightly damp brushes on the go and travel kits.
Project 5: Hanging Brush Dryer
Hanging brushes tip-down lets water drain away from the ferrule while the hair hangs straight. This is one of the kindest ways to dry watercolor brushes.
Materials
- A wooden dowel, paint stirrer or strip of wood about 12 to 18 inches long
- Small binder clips, bulldog clips or spring clothespins
- Screws or small hooks to mount the strip
- Optional: strips of foam or rubber to cushion handles
Steps
- Attach clips along the strip at 1.5 to 2 inch spacing, screwing or gluing them in place.
- Add foam pads inside clip jaws if they are tight enough to dent handles.
- Mount the strip on a wall, shelf edge or easel, high enough that the longest brushes hang freely.
- Clip brushes by the handle end with hairs pointing down and nothing touching the heads.
Best for: drying freshly washed brushes so water never sits in the ferrule.
Project 6: Upcycled Jar With Brush Rest Lid
This combines a holder and a painting-time rest.
Materials
- A wide-mouth jar with a metal lid
- Drill with a step bit or hole punch
- File or sandpaper
Steps
- Mark holes on the lid, spaced about an inch apart.
- Drill holes slightly larger than handle diameters.
- File sharp edges.
- Screw the lid on the empty jar. Brushes slide through the holes and stand separated, heads up.
Best for: organizing dry brushes by type in clear jars. Keep it empty of water; if you want a combined cleaner and holder, a purpose-designed unit with a raised coil is safer for the hairs. Our walkthrough on using the OXX brush cleaner and holder shows how those combined designs work.
Comparing the Projects
| Project | Difficulty | Time | Best use | Wet brushes? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Drilled wooden block | Moderate | 1 to 2 hours plus finish curing | Desk storage | No |
| Weighted tin can | Easy | 30 minutes | Quick access | No |
| Fabric brush roll | Moderate (sewing) | 1 to 3 hours | Travel and storage | No |
| Bamboo mat roll | Easy | 20 minutes | Travel, light drying | Slightly damp only |
| Hanging dryer | Easy | 30 to 60 minutes | Drying after washing | Yes |
| Jar with holed lid | Easy | 20 minutes | Sorting dry brushes | No |
Sizing Tips for Any Brush Holder
- Handle diameters vary. Measure a few of your brushes, and make holes a little larger than the thickest handles.
- Long vs short handles. Long-handled oil and acrylic brushes need a heavier or wider base, or holes deep enough to keep them steady.
- Height matters. In rolls and cases, add at least an inch above the longest brush head so the flap can cover it without pressing.
- Spacing. Aim for at least an inch between heads in upright holders, and more for large flats and mops.
Common DIY Brush Holder Mistakes
- Holes drilled too tight. Forcing a handle into a snug hole chips lacquer and can loosen the ferrule over time. A little play is better.
- Unsealed wood. Bare wood absorbs water and paint, swells, and can grow mildew. Even one coat of finish helps.
- No room above the heads in rolls. If the flap presses on the hairs, the roll bends them as badly as a crowded jar.
- Using a holder as a water cup. Standing brushes head-down in water, even briefly, bends tips and soaks the ferrule glue.
- Top-heavy designs. A narrow can full of long-handled brushes falls over at the worst moment. Weight the base before you trust it.
Finishing and Maintenance
- Seal wood with a water-resistant finish and let it cure fully before use, so fumes or tackiness do not transfer to brushes.
- Wipe holders regularly, especially near the top where paint drips collect.
- Wash fabric rolls by hand in mild soap and dry flat.
- Check that brushes are completely dry before storing them in closed rolls or drawers.
How Your Holder Fits Into a Brush Routine
A holder is only the final step. Brushes should be cleaned, reshaped and dried before they go in. During a session, a rest or a flat tray works better than an upright holder for wet brushes. If you are not sure where a holder fits during painting versus storage, our guide on how to use a brush holder covers placement and habits.
FAQs
What is the easiest brush holder to make?
A weighted tin can with a hardware cloth grid takes about half an hour, costs very little, and keeps brushes separated.
Can I store wet brushes in a homemade holder?
Only in designs that allow drainage and airflow, like a hanging dryer. Do not put wet brushes head-up in drilled blocks or jars, since water runs into the ferrule.
What size holes should I drill for paint brushes?
Measure your handles. Many artist brushes fit 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch holes, with smaller holes for detail brushes. Make holes slightly larger than the handle.
What fabric works best for a brush roll?
Sturdy, washable fabrics like cotton canvas, duck cloth or denim. They protect brushes and handle paint smudges well.
How do I keep a brush holder from tipping?
Add weight to the bottom, use a wide base, or drill angled holes that keep the center of gravity low.
Should brushes be stored upright or flat?
Both work for dry brushes as long as nothing presses on the hair. Upright storage suits daily-use brushes; flat or rolled storage suits travel and long-term storage.
Final Thoughts
Crafting a brush holder is a satisfying weekend project, and the best designs share the same features: separated brushes, protected heads, a stable base and good airflow. Start with a tin can or bamboo roll, then try a drilled block or hanging dryer as your collection grows. If you would rather compare ready-made options first, see our picks for the top brush holders for organizing studio brushes.
