Quick answer: The easiest way to make a ceramic watercolor palette is to repurpose white glazed dishes, such as a sectioned appetizer plate, a stack of small sauce dishes or a deviled egg plate, and fill the wells with tube watercolor that you let dry for one to two days. If you want a custom shape, hand-build one from stoneware or porcelain clay, bisque fire it, coat it in a food-safe glossy white glaze and fire again; a paint-your-own-pottery studio can do the firing. Avoid air-dry clay, which stays porous and softens when wet.
Many painters prefer ceramic over plastic because watercolor beads up less, washes do not stain the surface, and the weight keeps the palette from sliding. Learning how to make a ceramic watercolor pallet (or palette, as it is more often spelled) lets you choose the number of wells, the size of the mixing areas and even the shape. You do not need a pottery studio to get started; several methods use ordinary kitchenware.
Below are four approaches, from a 10-minute repurposed dish to a fully handmade kiln-fired palette, followed by how to fill and care for it. If you would rather buy one ready-made, our guide to the best ceramic palette for watercolor compares well layouts, sizes and finishes.
Why Ceramic Works So Well for Watercolor
- Non-porous glazed surface. Glossy glaze does not absorb water or pigment, so colors stay true and wells clean easily.
- Even wetting. Water spreads into a smooth puddle on glazed ceramic instead of breaking into droplets, which happens on many plastics until they are scuffed or seasoned.
- Stain resistance. Staining pigments like phthalo blue and quinacridone magenta can tint plastic permanently but usually wash off glazed ceramic.
- White reference. A bright white surface shows color accurately, much like white paper.
- Weight and stability. A heavy palette does not slide around or tip when you load a brush.
The trade-offs are weight for travel and the risk of chipping if dropped.
Method 1: Repurpose Ceramic Dishes (No Firing)
This is the fastest, cheapest approach and produces a palette as good as many store-bought versions.
What to look for
| Item | Why it works | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Sectioned appetizer or condiment tray | Built-in wells plus a central mixing area | Studio palette with 4–8 colors |
| Small sauce or soy dishes (2–3 in) | Each dish holds one color; arrange as needed | Flexible layouts, large mixing puddles |
| Deviled egg plate | Many shallow wells in a ring | Large color selections |
| Flat dinner or salad plate | Wide open mixing area | Mixing big washes |
| Butter dish with lid | Covered storage keeps dust off | Small travel set |
| Ceramic tile (glazed, white) | Flat mixing surface, very inexpensive | Mixing and testing colors |
Steps
- Choose glossy white glaze. Matte, textured or colored glazes can make mixing harder to judge. Avoid crackled glazes, where pigment can collect in fine cracks.
- Check the rims. Wells with a raised edge keep colors from running into each other. Shallow slopes are good for mixing areas.
- Wash thoroughly. Use dish soap and warm water to remove factory residue and oils, then dry completely.
- Dedicate it to art. Once used for paint, keep the dish for art only. Some pigments are not food safe.
- Fill with paint using the steps in the “Filling the Wells” section below.
Thrift stores and discount home stores are great sources. Look for chip-free pieces with a smooth, even glaze.
Method 2: Glue Small Dishes to a Base
Want a fixed layout without firing? Attach small ceramic dishes to a larger plate or tray.
- Arrange small dishes on a flat ceramic plate or tile until you like the layout. Leave a clear area for mixing.
- Clean all contact surfaces with rubbing alcohol.
- Apply a waterproof two-part epoxy or a strong silicone adhesive to the base of each small dish.
- Press the dishes in place and let the adhesive cure for the full time listed by the manufacturer, often 24 hours.
- Avoid soaking the palette in water afterward; wipe and rinse rather than submerging, to protect the bond.
This method is popular for building a palette around specific colors, for example 12 small wells for a full palette plus a large plate for mixing.
Method 3: Decorate at a Paint-Your-Own-Pottery Studio
Paint-your-own-pottery studios sell pre-made bisque pieces such as sectioned plates, small bowls and tiles. Staff apply a clear glaze and fire the pieces for you.
- Choose a bisque piece with wells or a flat plate.
- Paint the underside, rim or decorative edges with the studio’s underglazes if you want color or your name.
- Leave the wells and mixing areas unpainted so the final surface is plain white.
- Let the studio glaze and fire it. Pickup is usually within a week or two.
Ask the studio whether their clear glaze fires glossy and food safe. A glossy finish is what keeps watercolor from absorbing into the surface.
Method 4: Hand-Build a Ceramic Watercolor Palette From Clay
For full control over shape and well layout, make your own from clay. You will need access to a kiln, either at a community studio, school or pottery that offers firing services.
Materials
- Stoneware or porcelain clay (porcelain gives a very white, smooth surface)
- Rolling pin and two wooden guide strips about 1/4 inch thick
- Canvas cloth to roll on
- Needle tool or craft knife
- Round objects for pressing wells: spoons, small jar lids, marbles, a ping pong ball
- Sponge, water and a rubber or metal rib for smoothing
- Glossy white food-safe glaze or a clear glaze over white clay
Steps
- Wedge the clay. Knead it to remove air bubbles, which can crack in the kiln.
- Roll a slab. Roll the clay between guide strips to an even 1/4 to 3/8 inch thickness.
- Cut the shape. Trace a template, such as a 6 x 9 inch rectangle, a circle or a paint-palette kidney shape with a thumb hole, and cut with a needle tool.
- Press the wells. While the clay is soft, press the back of a spoon or a round object into the slab to create wells about 1/4 inch deep. Leave at least 1/2 inch between wells and keep a flat area for mixing.
- Add slopes if you like. Many painters like wells with one gently sloping side for easy brush loading and one steep side to hold paint.
- Smooth everything. Use a damp sponge and a rib to soften edges and erase tool marks. Rough spots become rough glaze, which is harder to clean.
- Dry slowly. Cover loosely with plastic for the first day or two so the slab does not warp, then uncover until bone dry. Flat slabs can curl if they dry too fast on one side.
- Bisque fire. The studio fires the dry piece to bisque, typically around cone 04 for most clays.
- Glaze. Dip or brush on a glossy white or clear glaze. Wipe glaze off the bottom so it does not fuse to the kiln shelf.
- Glaze fire. The studio fires it again to the clay and glaze’s maturity temperature.
Clay shrinks during drying and firing, often around 10–15 percent depending on the clay body. Make your palette slightly larger than you want the finished piece to be.
Glazed vs unglazed wells
A few painters prefer unglazed bisque wells because the slightly porous surface grips dry paint cakes. The downside is staining and absorption. For most people, glossy glaze everywhere is easier to live with.
Why Not Air-Dry or Oven-Bake Clay?
Air-dry clay never becomes waterproof. Even when sealed with varnish, the surface can soften, crack or leach residue into paint with repeated wetting. Polymer (oven-bake) clay is waterproof but has a slightly plasticky surface that watercolor may bead on, and it is less heat- and scratch-resistant than ceramic. For a palette you will wet and scrub often, kiln-fired ceramic or repurposed glazed dishes are much more reliable.
Planning Your Well Layout
| Palette type | Wells | Mixing area | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Minimal | 3–6 | One large space | Limited palettes, beginners |
| Standard | 8–12 | Two or three spaces | Most studio painters |
| Expanded | 16–24 | Large central space | Botanical and detailed work |
| Flower or round | 6–10 around the rim | Center | Mixing near all colors at once |
Arrange colors in a logical order, often warm to cool around the palette, so you build a habit of reaching for the same well each time. Keep neighboring colors that mix well side by side.
Filling the Wells: How to Make a Watercolor Palette Ready to Paint
- Squeeze tube paint into each well, enough to fill it about halfway to two-thirds.
- Tap the palette gently on a table to level the paint and release air bubbles.
- Label each color. Write color names on a piece of masking tape stuck beside each well or on a paper swatch chart kept with the palette.
- Let it dry for 24–48 hours flat and uncovered, away from dust. Some pigments with more honey or glycerin stay slightly tacky longer.
- Top up in layers. If a well cracks or shrinks while drying, add more paint once the first layer has dried. Layering avoids large cracks.
- Reactivate with water. Before painting, mist the wells or drop a little clean water on each color and wait a minute.
Some colors crack or pop out of wells when completely dry, especially on very smooth glazed ceramic. Adding a tiny drop of gum arabic or glycerin to problem colors before drying can reduce this, though most tube watercolors dry acceptably on their own.
Caring for a Ceramic Palette
- Clean mixing areas with a damp sponge after each session, leaving dried wells intact.
- For deep cleaning, wash with warm water and mild soap. A melamine sponge removes stubborn stains on glazed surfaces.
- Avoid harsh abrasives that could dull the glaze.
- Cover between uses with a plate, lid or cloth to keep dust and pet hair out of the wells.
- Store flat and away from shelf edges to prevent chips.
- Do not use it for food again once it has held paint.
Troubleshooting
Water beads up on the surface
Oils from hands or packaging can repel water. Wash with dish soap, rinse and avoid touching the mixing areas.
Colors bleed into each other
Wells are too shallow or too close together. Add raised dividers or use separate small dishes.
Paint cracks and falls out of wells
Fill in thinner layers and let each dry before adding more, or add a drop of gum arabic or glycerin.
Handmade palette warped
The slab dried too quickly or unevenly. Next time, dry it more slowly under loose plastic and flip it when leather-hard, if your clay allows.
Glaze crazing
Fine cracks in the glaze can trap pigment. They happen when glaze and clay shrink at different rates. Ask your studio about a glaze matched to your clay body.
FAQs
Can I use any ceramic plate as a watercolor palette?
Most white, glossy glazed ceramic plates work well. Avoid crackled, textured or deeply colored glazes, and keep the plate for art once it has been used with paint.
How to make a watercolor palette with tube paint?
Squeeze paint into wells about halfway, tap to level, label each color and let dry for 24–48 hours. Reactivate with a drop of water before painting.
Is ceramic better than plastic for watercolor palettes?
Many painters prefer ceramic because water spreads evenly, it resists staining and it is heavy enough to stay put. Plastic is lighter and better for travel.
Can I make a ceramic palette without a kiln?
Yes, by repurposing glazed dishes or gluing small dishes to a base. True handmade ceramic needs firing, which pottery studios can do for you.
Can I use air-dry clay for a watercolor palette?
It is not recommended. Air-dry clay stays porous and softens with repeated wetting, even when sealed.
How long does paint take to dry in a palette?
Usually 24 to 48 hours, depending on the brand, pigment and humidity.
Final Thoughts
A ceramic watercolor palette can be as simple as a thrifted appetizer tray or as personal as a handmade, kiln-fired slab with wells shaped for your favorite brushes. Glossy white glaze, raised well edges and a generous mixing area matter most. If you would rather skip the DIY and compare well layouts side by side, browse our picks for the top porcelain and ceramic watercolor palettes.
