Soft Pastels vs Chalk Pastels: What’s the Difference?

Soft Pastels vs Chalk Pastels: What's the Difference? – PaintingProGuide cover image

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Quick answer: In art supplies, “chalk pastels” usually means the same thing as dry pastels, the family that includes soft and hard pastels. The term is often used in marketing for firmer, square, student-grade soft pastel sticks. Chalk pastels are not the same as sidewalk chalk, which is a cheap, low-pigment stick made for pavement, and not the same as oil pastels.

If you have been shopping for pastels, you have probably seen “soft pastels,” “chalk pastels,” “hard pastels” and “pastel pencils” used almost interchangeably. The soft pastels vs chalk pastels question is mostly a terminology problem, and once you understand the labels, it becomes much easier to buy the right set.

This guide clears up what each term really means, how soft and hard pastels differ, and when pastel pencils are the better tool. When you are ready to buy, see our roundup of the best soft pastel sets.

Soft Pastels vs Chalk Pastels: The Short Version

All dry pastels are made of pigment, a small amount of binder, and sometimes a filler such as chalk or kaolin. Because they look and feel chalky, people call them “chalk pastels.” Manufacturers use the phrase on many sets, especially square, wrapped student sticks, to distinguish them from oil pastels.

So a set labeled “soft chalk pastels” is still a soft pastel set. The real differences you should care about are softness (how much binder and filler), pigment load and grade, not the word “chalk.”

Comparison Table: Soft, Chalk, Hard Pastels and More

TypeWhat It IsFeelBest For
Extra-soft artist pastelsVery high pigment, minimal binder; often roundButtery, crumblyFinal layers, rich color, painterly work
Soft pastels (medium-soft)Artist or student grade dry pastelsSmooth, blendable, some controlMost painting stages
“Chalk pastels” (marketing term)Usually firmer square soft pastels, often student gradeFirm, chalkySketching, blocking in, edges, classrooms
Hard pastelsMore binder, compressed, typically squareFirm, crispUnderdrawing, detail, early layers
Pastel pencilsPastel core in a wood casingFirm, preciseFine detail, eyes, hair, lettering
Sidewalk chalkLow-pigment, coarse stick for pavementDusty, weak colorOutdoor play, not fine art
Oil pastelsPigment in oil and waxCreamy, waxyBold, dust-free work

Are Chalk Pastels the Same as Sidewalk Chalk?

No. Sidewalk chalk is made for pavement: it is chunky, inexpensive and contains little pigment, so colors look pale and dusty on paper. Chalk pastels sold for art are made with finer pigment for paper and are designed to blend and layer. If you try sidewalk chalk on pastel paper, you will notice weaker color and a gritty feel right away.

Some craft or kids’ sets labeled “chalk pastels” are closer to student pastels than to sidewalk chalk, but quality varies. Look for the pigment description, color count and non-toxic labeling rather than relying on the name.

Soft Pastels vs Hard Pastels

This is the comparison that actually affects your painting. Soft and hard pastels are both dry pastels; the difference is the ratio of pigment to binder.

Soft Pastels

Soft pastels have more pigment and less binder. They lay down strong color with light pressure, blend easily and cover broad areas, but they fill the paper’s tooth faster and wear down quickly. Extra-soft brands such as Sennelier, which the maker describes as air-dried and uncompressed, sit at the softest end.

Hard Pastels

Hard pastels contain more binder and are compressed into firmer sticks. They produce less dust, hold an edge and leave a thinner layer, so they are great for initial drawing, defining shapes and adding crisp lines without clogging the paper.

Why Artists Use Both

The golden rule of pastel is to layer from hard to soft. Firm sticks go down first because they leave tooth available; soft sticks go on top because they slide over earlier layers and deliver the richest color. Hard pastel will not grip on top of thick soft layers. Our guide on how to use soft pastels step by step shows this layering in practice.

Where Square “Chalk” Sets Fit

Square sets such as MUNGYO’s 64-color soft pastels or COLOUR BLOCK’s 80-color set are sold as soft pastels but typically feel firmer than extra-soft round artist sticks. In a layering system, they often act like your “harder” layer: good for sketching, blocking in and edges. Medium-soft artist brands like Rembrandt sit between the two extremes.

How to Tell How Soft Your Pastels Are

Labels are inconsistent, so a quick test at your own desk tells you more than the box. Try these simple tests on a scrap of the paper you plan to use:

  1. The light-pressure stroke: drag the stick across the paper with almost no pressure. Extra-soft pastels leave a solid, opaque mark; firmer sticks leave a thin, broken line that shows paper texture.
  2. The layering test: lay down one color, then try a firmer stick over it. If the second stick skates without depositing color, the first layer was soft and filled the tooth.
  3. The dust check: softer sticks shed more loose powder when you tap the paper. Firmer, more compressed sticks shed less.
  4. The edge test: try a crisp line with a corner or tip. Hard and square sticks hold an edge; very soft round sticks crumble and give a softer line.

Once you know where each stick sits, arrange them in your box from firmest to softest. That makes it easy to follow the hard-to-soft rule without thinking about brands.

Building a Hard-to-Soft Kit on a Budget

You do not need a professional set of every type. A practical beginner kit looks like this:

  • A firm, inexpensive square set for sketching, blocking in and underlayers. This is where most “chalk pastel” sets shine.
  • A handful of artist-grade soft sticks in the colors you use most, usually a very dark, a near-white and a few key mid-tones, for final layers and highlights.
  • Two or three pastel pencils (a dark, a white and a neutral) for details.
  • Paper with tooth, because even the best sticks struggle on smooth paper.

This approach costs far less than a large professional box and teaches you which colors and softness levels you actually reach for, so your next purchase is a smarter one.

Soft Pastels vs Pastel Pencils

Pastel pencils are firm pastel cores encased in wood. They behave like hard pastels in a more precise format, so they are ideal for eyes, hair, whiskers, botanical details and fine lines. They can be sharpened to a point, which no stick can match.

The trade-off is coverage. Covering a large background with pencils is slow, and the thin layer has less color intensity than soft sticks. Most artists use soft pastels for big areas and pastel pencils for final details. Pastel pencils also pair well with sticks: Mont Marte, for example, notes its soft pastels are suitable for use with pastel pencils and charcoal.

Soft Pastels vs Charcoal and Crayons

Charcoal is a dry drawing medium in black and grays, often used with pastels for underdrawings. Soft pastels add full color with a similar dry, blendable feel. Crayons and oil pastels, by contrast, are waxy and do not blend or layer like dry pastels. If you are weighing dry pastels against oil-based sticks, see our full comparison of soft pastels vs oil pastels.

How to Read Pastel Labels When Shopping

  • “Extra-soft” or “uncompressed”: very soft, high pigment, best for final layers.
  • “Soft pastels” plus round sticks and artist grade: versatile, painterly.
  • “Chalk pastels” or “square soft pastels”: usually firmer, often student grade; great for sketching and blocking in.
  • “Hard pastels”: compressed, firm, for drawing and early layers.
  • “Lightfastness” information: found mainly on artist-grade sets; important if you plan to sell or display work.
  • Non-toxic seals (such as AP): useful for classrooms and younger artists.

For surfaces that suit all dry pastels, see our guide to the best canvas for pastels.

Which Should You Buy?

  • Beginners: a firmer square soft or “chalk” pastel set to learn control, plus a few soft sticks for highlights.
  • Painters who want rich color: artist-grade soft pastels for top layers.
  • Detail and portrait artists: add a set of pastel pencils or hard pastels for fine work.
  • Kids and outdoor play: sidewalk chalk is fine for pavement, but use a non-toxic student pastel set for paper.

FAQs

Are chalk pastels and soft pastels the same?

Mostly, yes. “Chalk pastels” is a common name for dry pastels and is often used for firmer, square soft pastel sets. The real difference between sets is how soft and pigmented the sticks are, not the label.

What is the difference between soft pastels and hard pastels?

Soft pastels have more pigment and less binder, so they are richer and more blendable but fill paper tooth quickly. Hard pastels have more binder, are firmer and are better for drawing, details and early layers.

Should I use soft pastels or pastel pencils?

Use soft pastels for large areas, backgrounds and rich color, and pastel pencils for fine details like eyes, hair and edges. Most pastel artists use both in the same painting.

Can you use chalk pastels on canvas?

Yes, if the canvas has enough tooth. Standard primed canvas is often too smooth, so use a canvas or board coated with a pastel ground, or a surface designed for pastels.

Are chalk pastels good for beginners?

Yes. Firmer chalk-style pastel sets are inexpensive, easy to control and good for learning value and blending. Add a few softer artist sticks later for brighter highlights.

Final Recommendation

Do not let the word “chalk” steer your buying decision. Focus on softness, pigment and grade: firmer square sets for sketching and early layers, artist-grade soft pastels for rich final color, and pastel pencils for details. To find a set that fits your budget and style, compare the soft pastels we recommend, from budget square sets to professional half sticks.

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Picture of Md Jomiruddin Sobuj

Md Jomiruddin Sobuj

Md Jomiruddin Sobuj is the founder and editor of PaintingProGuide. He comes to art supplies from digital publishing rather than from a studio, and the site reflects that: every guide here is built from manufacturer specifications, product documentation and the patterns that show up across hundreds of real user reviews — the details that predict how a brush, a paint or an easel actually behaves once you are using it. He writes or edits every article on the site and is accountable for what each one says, including telling you when a product is wrong for you. Corrections and questions are genuinely welcome at contact@paintingproguide.com.

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