Paint does not fail on a surface because the paint is bad. It fails because the surface was not prepared for it. Acrylic will sit happily on canvas for decades and peel off glass in a week; the same wood that takes paint beautifully after sanding will reject it entirely while raw and dusty. This guide covers the surfaces artists and crafters actually paint on, what each one needs, and which paint belongs on it.
The Rule Behind All of It
Paint needs something to grip. Porous surfaces — canvas, paper, raw wood — give it mechanical grip naturally, so preparation is mostly about controlling how much they absorb. Non-porous surfaces — glass, metal, glazed ceramic, most plastics — give it nothing, so you either sand them, prime them, or use a paint formulated to bond chemically, and you usually have to heat-set or seal afterwards.
Canvas
The default surface for acrylic and oil, and the most forgiving. Most shop-bought canvas comes pre-primed with acrylic gesso, which is ready for acrylic straight away.
- For acrylic: ready to use. One extra coat of gesso, sanded lightly between coats, gives a smoother surface if you want finer detail.
- For oil: acrylic gesso is acceptable, but an oil-primed or universal-primed canvas gives better adhesion and less absorption. Never paint oil onto raw unprimed canvas — the oil rots the fibres over time.
- Stretched canvas vs panel: panels are rigid, so they suit knife work, scraping and heavy texture. Stretched canvas has give, which suits large gestural work.
Our guides to canvas for acrylic paint and canvas for oil painting cover weights and weaves.
Wood
Excellent for paint once prepared, and far more durable than canvas. Raw wood is thirsty and will drink the first coat unevenly.
- Sand with medium then fine grit, following the grain.
- Wipe off all dust with a slightly damp cloth and let it dry.
- Seal or prime — gesso for fine art, a wood primer for furniture and signs. Two thin coats beat one thick one.
- Sand lightly between coats for a smooth finish.
- Paint, then seal with a varnish or polycrylic if the piece will be handled or used outdoors.
Acrylic is the usual choice: it is flexible enough to move with the wood as it expands and contracts. See acrylic paint for wood.
Glass
The hardest common surface, because nothing grips it. Three things make the difference: clean it with rubbing alcohol first to remove invisible oils, use paint made for glass or add a glass-and-tile medium to acrylic, and cure it properly.
- Curing: most glass paints need either 21 days of air curing or baking in a home oven — typically around 150°C (300°F) for 30 minutes, following the manufacturer’s exact instructions, with the piece placed in a cold oven and cooled inside it to avoid cracking.
- Dishwasher safety: only paints explicitly labelled dishwasher-safe survive it, and even then hand-washing lasts longer.
- Food contact: keep paint below the rim of anything drunk from, and off any surface food touches.
- Thin coats: two or three thin layers self-level and stay clear; one thick layer streaks and peels.
See paints for glass painting for suitable products.
Metal
Rust and factory oil are the enemies. Sand or wire-brush off any rust, degrease with alcohol or a detergent wash, and prime with a metal primer — self-etching for bare metal, rust-inhibiting for anything that will live outdoors. Acrylic and enamel both work over primer; enamel is tougher, acrylic is easier to handle. Seal outdoor work with a UV-resistant clear coat.
Ceramic and Terracotta
Unglazed terracotta is porous and behaves much like raw wood: seal it first, or it will drink several coats. Glazed ceramic behaves like glass — clean, use ceramic paint, and cure as instructed. For planters, seal the inside separately or leave it unpainted so moisture is not trapped against the paint film.
Fabric and Canvas Shoes
Use fabric paint or acrylic mixed with a fabric medium, which keeps the paint flexible instead of cracking with the first wash. Wash and dry the item first to remove sizing, place cardboard inside to stop bleed-through, paint in thin layers, then heat-set with an iron on the reverse for a few minutes. Wait at least 72 hours before washing, then wash inside out on cold.
Plastic
The trickiest surface after glass, and the most variable, because plastics differ enormously. Sand lightly with fine grit to break the shine, clean thoroughly, and use a plastic-specific primer — spray primers formulated for plastic are the most reliable. Test on an inconspicuous area first: some paints and solvents will soften or craze certain plastics.
Paper and Card
Weight is everything. Anything under about 200gsm will buckle with wet media. Use 300gsm watercolour paper for watercolour and fluid acrylic, mixed-media paper for heavier work, and tape the sheet down on all four edges to keep it flat while it dries.
Walls
For interior murals, fill and sand any damage, wash off grease, prime, and use interior latex or artist acrylic. A matte or eggshell base holds paint better than gloss — if the wall is glossy, sand it first. Seal a finished mural with a clear matte varnish so it can be wiped clean. Our step-by-step mural guide covers scaling a design up.
Quick Reference
- Canvas — gesso; acrylic or oil.
- Wood — sand, seal, prime; acrylic; varnish to finish.
- Glass — alcohol clean; glass paint or acrylic with glass medium; bake or air-cure.
- Metal — degrease, metal primer; enamel or acrylic; clear coat outdoors.
- Ceramic — ceramic paint; cure per instructions.
- Fabric — fabric paint or acrylic plus fabric medium; heat-set.
- Plastic — scuff, plastic primer, test first.
- Paper — 300gsm minimum for wet media; tape down.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use regular acrylic paint on any surface?
On porous surfaces, usually yes with priming. On glass, metal, glazed ceramic and plastic it needs help — either a bonding medium or a dedicated primer — or it will peel.
Do I always need to prime?
Not on pre-primed canvas. On almost everything else, priming is what determines whether the paint is still there in five years.
How do I make painted items washable?
Cure fully, then seal: varnish or polycrylic on wood, a baked cure on glass and ceramic, heat-setting on fabric. Hand-wash where possible.
Why is my paint peeling off?
Nearly always surface contamination — oil, dust or residue — or a missing primer. Strip it back, clean with alcohol, prime, and repaint.
Where to Go Next
If you are choosing a paint for a specific job rather than a surface, our guide to choosing the right paint for your project works through it from the other direction. For oil painters specifically, the best surfaces for oil painting goes deeper on supports and grounds.
